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avidinternet
Member
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# Posted: 4 Nov 2016 04:55
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Hello, We are currently designing our new home and will begin construction shortly. There are 2 cell towers about 1/2 a mile and a mile away from our home.
I need advice on how to best protect the entire home from the cell towers and I want to have enough protection for the inevitable future upgrades that we will have to endure.
Our home will be 6" thick solid poured concrete. We are thinking of putting aluminum mosquito screening inside the house, after the concrete walls, and nailing it to the wood ferring strips inside the house on all the walls and ceilings, overlapping for continuity, grounding and then dry walling over it all.
Then we were going to possibly paint the outside, after they stucco the exterior, with the Y shield paint and ground it all.
What do you think of this plan? If applied properly will it be of benefit? Should we eliminate any of it or change our strategy?
We are also going to put MC cable in the walls of our bedroom area as well, thoughts?
We had to sell our last house because it was wood with no protection at all and the cell tower was literally across the street, so this house I'd like to do right.
We don't use Wi-fi or cordless phones or anything inside the house at all, so I am trying to do my best to fix the outside to best protect us.
Thank you in advance for any help and advice you may give :)
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avidinternet
Member
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2016 03:14
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Anyone here? :(
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horsevad
Member
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# Posted: 5 Nov 2016 16:33
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Anyone here? :(
Yes I am still here...
(I do a lot of wilderness skills teaching, so I am often away from the computer for extended periods - which has a limiting factor on the speed of the responses...)
Your plan sounds good. It is clearly evident that you have a firm grasp of the shielding principles.
Remember that the shielding in the walls are just one part of the structure. Similar shielding should be build into the floor and the roof. Ideally the shielding materials used in the floor and the roof should have continuous electrical connection to the materials used in the wall.
Doing double shielding (ie using both aluminium netting and paint) is usually not necessary, but if you goal is ultimate shielding it is certainly worth it for the extra small cost involved. If such a strategy is chosen it would be prudent to include double shielding in both floor and roof - to maximise the profit from the double layer in the walls.
Ideally no opening in the resulting Faraday cage should be larger than 1/40 wavelength. This means that some kind of shielding of the windows and doors are necessary. This can be done with curtains or with shielding laminates. Remember that these materials should - preferably - have continuous electrical connection to the wall shielding. If that isn't feasible there should at least be 1 wavelength overlap.
Remember to include some kind of vapour barrier in your wall design. Depending on your location and the difference in indoor and outdoor temperature (and the thereby created diffusion gradient) such a construction could be vulnerable to mold.
I am not familiar with the term "MC cable". Please specify further before I can comment on that specific point.
//Kim Horsevad
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avidinternet
Member
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# Posted: 6 Nov 2016 16:04
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Hi, thanks for your response. I wasn't clear in my post, but it is a 1 story house with 8/12 pitch roofing and lots of high eves, so we will be putting the mosquito net overlapping the inside walls onto the ceiling inside the house all connected in that manner as we cannot put it up on the roof. When they screw the drywall in on top of that will it pose a problem to this setup?
However there will have to be holes cut in it in numerous areas because of the ceiling lights and outlets so will this make it not protect as well or be a problem, in some way? Is there a certain perimeter of clearance we need to maintain around these electrical outlets, ceiling lights so as not to electrify the surface? Also can we use any type of nails to connect all the mosquito netting to the wood ferring strips or do they have to be aluminum? What would you recommend to use as the grounding tape for this?
You also said for me to do the floor as well but will it be useless if I do not? This is a 1 story... I plan to put 3m reflective tint on the windows and the window frames are all aluminum so I believe i need to somehow ground the window tint as well or do I?
We live in Florida, and there will be a 1 inch thick rigid foam board 4x8 sheet of insulated panel with aluminum sheeting adhered to it, which will also be nailed on all the interior of outside walls as well as a polyurethane spray foam insulation closed cell that is sprayed on the entire roof area. Does any of that help as far as you are aware?
MC cable is metal clad flexible metal conduit which isn't probably as good as regular conduit but I thought it would protect better in the bedroom area than romex. But maybe I wouldn't even need it seeing as how the mosquito netting is past the electrical which will run behind it?
Thanks for your help Kim I appreciate it!
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charles
Member
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2016 14:39
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A double shielding ends up in no shielding.
Shielding the floor and the roof makes you complete Faraday cage, in which you are going to feel very uncomfortable, because you lack the cosmic rays, which cannot enter.
Better is repairing your damaged immune system.
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Henrik
Admin
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2016 16:17
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charles,
I had the impression that the uncomfortable feeling that some people report from being in faraday cages, was only an initial and temporary effect - something akin to withdrawal symptoms from the elevated stress hormones - something that the body might need to adjust to.
I do agree that repairing the immune system is the most important step - but without shielding, how is the body expected to being healing whilst under chronic insult from microwave exposure?
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horsevad
Member
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2016 16:52 - Edited by: horsevad
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Hi, thanks for your response. I wasn't clear in my post, but it is a 1 story house with 8/12 pitch roofing and lots of high eves, so we will be putting the mosquito net overlapping the inside walls onto the ceiling inside the house all connected in that manner as we cannot put it up on the roof. When they screw the drywall in on top of that will it pose a problem to this setup?
Good solution.
However there will have to be holes cut in it in numerous areas because of the ceiling lights and outlets so will this make it not protect as well or be a problem, in some way? Is there a certain perimeter of clearance we need to maintain around these electrical outlets, ceiling lights so as not to electrify the surface? Also can we use any type of nails to connect all the mosquito netting to the wood ferring strips or do they have to be aluminum? What would you recommend to use as the grounding tape for this?
Type of nails does not matter much, as galvanic corrosion require a damp environment. Galvanic corrosion is therefore, normally, not seen in indoor construction.
Regarding clearance around electrical installations: Your local electrical code could have provisions for such measures, but conductive surfaces are generally allowed just outsite the electrical junction boxes. If the shielding material is grounded, and you use some kind of RCD, the conductive surfaces can never be electrified.
Grounding is a simple affair. A simple aluminium plate (10 x 10cm) bolted on the surface will be fully sufficient. The important aspect of grounding is to make sure that your earth rod has sufficient electrical contact with the soil. This resistance can be measured in many ways (depending on the exact layout of the electrical infrastructure), but is really important. The lower value the better!
You also said for me to do the floor as well but will it be useless if I do not? This is a 1 story... I plan to put 3m reflective tint on the windows and the window frames are all aluminum so I believe i need to somehow ground the window tint as well or do I?
Your shielding will not be useless if you do not shield the floor, but its effectiveness is diminished as you depend on the absorbing characteristics of the soil to attenuate any electromagnetic signal from entering the house from below. The exact importance of floor shielding can only be calculated if one knows the topographical layout of the area in question and has access to soil data.
The metallic tint is generally very effective. Make sure the aluminium window frames has electrical connection to the shielding material - this will make the shielding much better - and will avoid the need for grounding each window.
We live in Florida, and there will be a 1 inch thick rigid foam board 4x8 sheet of insulated panel with aluminum sheeting adhered to it, which will also be nailed on all the interior of outside walls as well as a polyurethane spray foam insulation closed cell that is sprayed on the entire roof area. Does any of that help as far as you are aware?
Again, there will probably be local building code which one must adhere to, but in the climate I am usedd to such construction is usually avoided. It may be very different in Florida!
Be aware that there are many kinds of insulation foam, and even hydrofobic polyurethane can trap moisture in contact areas, where the surface tension of water makes it possible to sometimes move "uphill" in the construction.
I am not an expert on the construction details, so all I can advise is to be aware that there can be issues which preferably should be investigated further.
MC cable is metal clad flexible metal conduit which isn't probably as good as regular conduit but I thought it would protect better in the bedroom area than romex. But maybe I wouldn't even need it seeing as how the mosquito netting is past the electrical which will run behind it?
Good solution. If you ground the metal in the MC cable you can effectively remove the electrical fields around the wiring. Be aware, though, that such shielding does not attenuate the magnetic field in any significant amount.
- - -
To avoid the danger of electrical shock all conductive parts of the building should be thoroughly grounded. In this part of the world there is actually a legal requirement for such "equipotential bonding", but I am unsure whether your electrical code has such requirements.
//Kim Horsevad
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horsevad
Member
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# Posted: 8 Nov 2016 17:02 - Edited by: horsevad
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A double shielding ends up in no shielding.
Shielding the floor and the roof makes you complete Faraday cage, in which you are going to feel very uncomfortable, because you lack the cosmic rays, which cannot enter.
Better is repairing your damaged immune system.
Could you please elaborate further?
Cosmic rays are ionising radiation. The are high energy particles. The common term is "radioactive"! Such radiation has no healing properties on human health.
Furthermore: How should a Faraday cage, which is designed to attenuate electrical fields, in any way have any effect on the level of cosmic radiation?
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If you have observed people feeling discomfort while they stay in a faraday cage you would probably be well advise to measure (and filter) electrical disturbances from other installations entering the faraday cage by means of ground connection. In some instances the level of leak currents from nearby SMPS or similar thyristor-based equipment can make the farady cage radiate RF along any discontinuities in the structure having an impedance allowing a resonance between the structure and any overharmonic component in the leaked current. Only a very good ground connection (low ground resistance - ideally better than 5 Ohms) can mitigate such scenarios.
Furthermore there may be layers in the soil which are conductive and electrified by some installation fault several miles away. Such scenarios is extremely rare, but can result in situations where the faraday cage itself is electrified.
A quantitative measurement of such scenarios can be made with different electrical measurement apparatus, but the simple layman qualitative measurement is made with an AM radio. Tune the radio so that it only receives noise - then bring it closer to a earth rod - or the connected faraday cage. If the noise intensifies as the radio is brought closer to the earth rod one would be well advised to investigate further
//Kim Horsevad
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avidinternet
Member
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# Posted: 10 Nov 2016 15:36
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Grounding is a simple affair. A simple aluminium plate (10 x 10cm) bolted on the surface will be fully sufficient. The important aspect of grounding is to make sure that your earth rod has sufficient electrical contact with the soil. This resistance can be measured in many ways (depending on the exact layout of the electrical infrastructure), but is really important. The lower value the better!
So if one run of the wall is 95' long, how far apart and often would you place this aluminum plate for grounding? All aluminum will be overlapped on walls and ceiling.
The metallic tint is generally very effective. Make sure the aluminium window frames has electrical connection to the shielding material - this will make the shielding much better - and will avoid the need for grounding each window.
How do you make sure they have an electrical connection? What would I do for that?
A double shielding ends up in no shielding.
Shielding the floor and the roof makes you complete Faraday cage, in which you are going to feel very uncomfortable, because you lack the cosmic rays, which cannot enter.
Better is repairing your damaged immune system.
Hi Charles, Yes I have Sjogrens disease which is an auto immune disease so I am doing my best to live in the most healthy manner possible.
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horsevad
Member
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# Posted: 12 Nov 2016 16:54
Reply
Grounding is a simple affair. A simple aluminium plate (10 x 10cm) bolted on the surface will be fully sufficient. The important aspect of grounding is to make sure that your earth rod has sufficient electrical contact with the soil. This resistance can be measured in many ways (depending on the exact layout of the electrical infrastructure), but is really important. The lower value the better!
So if one run of the wall is 95' long, how far apart and often would you place this aluminum plate for grounding? All aluminum will be overlapped on walls and ceiling.
That depends on the resistance between the different sheets of shielding material. Use a multimeter to verify that the resistance is as low as possible. If done correctly one grounding point is sufficient; but most suppliers recommend a lot more, as they cannot verify the quality of the work done by the customer.
The metallic tint is generally very effective. Make sure the aluminium window frames has electrical connection to the shielding material - this will make the shielding much better - and will avoid the need for grounding each window.
How do you make sure they have an electrical connection? What would I do for that?
Conductive paint, strips of tinfoil, aluminium netting or similar will all achieve such purpose. Verify the connection with a multimeter.
//Kim Horsevad
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